You will know that the most important product to have in your lash kit is your lash adhesive and to get the best performance, means keeping the adhesive fresh!
These days most lash adhesives on the market are considered medium to high performance, that means used in the right conditions the client will keep their lash extensions for a good 3-5 weeks before requiring an infill. If your clients are returning in less than 2 weeks for in-fills, one of the areas to look at is your working environment. Are you working in the right conditions for your adhesive to cure correctly?
Lash adhesive are very rarely faulty, the environmental conditions the lash adhesive is exposed to whilst curing has a massive impact on the quality and longevity of the product.
How does lash adhesive work?
Lash adhesive does not ‘dry’, it cures because the main ingredient in lash adhesive, cyanoacrylate is an acrylic resin that rapidly polymerizes (cures) with the presence of water in the air (humidity). Once the adhesive liquid comes into contact with water in the air (humidity) this causes a thin skin to start to form within seconds, which will slow the reaction.
This is why it’s important to only use a thin layer of adhesive – to ensure a speedy reaction which will create a strong bond. The process of curing takes up to 12-24hrs before the adhesive becomes waterproof and it’s safe to expose to other water sources like showers, saunas, etc.
Top Tip – Use a Hydrometer so you know the humidity and temperature.
As already mentioned lash adhesive start to cure once in contact with water in the air (humidity) and it needs to be exposed to the right amount of water (and heat) in the air. Too much or too little water will weaken the integrity of the adhesive. For optimum working conditions keep your room temperature and humidity within the recommended ranges of your adhesive.
If your adhesive dries too quickly, you can find extensions become brittle and ‘ping’ off the natural lashes. This means there is not enough water in the air. This is when a nano-mister becomes your best friend in helping the lash adhesive to cure correctly.
If your adhesive dries too slowly, the adhesive will become ‘gloopy’ and can create ‘stickies’. This means there is too much water in the air and can compromise the strength of the adhesive. This is when a dehumidifier becomes your best friend in helping the lash adhesive to cure correctly.
The curing process uses humidity and air temperature, so whilst it’s important to have the correct humidity, it’s just as important to work in the right temperatures.
Working in too high temperatures slows the reaction to become solid. The adhesive will thicken quickly, but will not set. If the adhesive takes too long to set, these are the first signs that the adhesive is not fresh, and will need to be replaced.
For Best Results
For best results the humidity and temperature need to be within the recommended range to get the best results from the adhesive.
Its also worth noting that once you open your bottle of adhesive it becomes exposed to the air and it starts to very slowly degrade because of the slow curing. This is why most lash adhesive suppliers recommend a two month expiry after opening.
Best Storage Solutions
- Keep your adhesive bottle stored in a cool, dark place. Keep in a jar filled with rice (or moisture beads) to keep adhesive moisture free. Remember to replace the rice with each new bottle!
- Store unopened bottled in the fridge. Once open avoid condensation by storing in the fridge – a cool, dark place is best.
Best Working Solutions
- Use a few drops of adhesive at a time. Replenish as and when.
- Use fresh glue for each client.
- Once the adhesive starts to thicken, however soon – discard!
So, to recap
Top Tip – Keep a spare bottle of adhesive in the fridge, unopened.
Different reasons as to why lash extensions won’t last but both have the same result – no longevity for the lash wearer. It’s not always bad client aftercare, but because I am so aware of my working conditions, if a client is having problems with retention, I know it’s not my lash adhesive!
Best Working Conditions
- Store in a cool dry area of the room.
- Shake your adhesive for at least 30 seconds before every use.
- Keep nozzle clean by wiping after EVERY use.
- Once opened do not keep your adhesive in the fridge, this will create condensation and will accelerate the curing process of your adhesive.
- For best results ensure lashes are oil free by using the Primer prior to use.
- Keep adhesive away from children.
- Adhesive will expire 2-3 months after opening. Adhesive can be stored up to 1 year un-opened in a cool dark environment.